Travelling into the Chinese New Year

Helen Caddick’s passport [MS 908/A/9]

Helen Caddick was born in 1845. She had a long-term interest in education, travel and anthropology. Throughout her travels, she kept detailed diaries of the places she visited and people she met on the way. Beginning in 1889, her diaries record her travels to Palestine, Egypt, Canada, Japan, South Africa, USA and New Zealand, to name a few, and continue until 1914. In 1909, and in her early 60s, Helen was in China for Chinese New Year, travelling on the ‘Matilde’ and arriving in Hong Kong on 10th January before continuing to Canton.

1909

JAN. 22. Chinese New Year – Crackers were going all night long. They were to finish at 9 a.m. so I went out at 8.30. Saw one of the long Crackers go off from top story, & banged away the whole way up. At another house a regular fusillade of crackers kept up for 5 minutes – No one could pass. The streets a thick mass of red and green paper. – Went through China Town, every stall cleared away and only quantities of rubbish left in the streets. All shops closed – All the Chinese in lovely new silk suits looking very nice. The children were as bright as possible – Green coats, scarlet & blue & caps with gold and scarlet & all colours. Several Tikka Gharries, imported for the occasion I should think, & open carriages, jinrickshas & chairs, all filled with well dressed Chinese going out calling – Saw some more long crackers, reached from top of a 4 storied house to the ground – A thick rope of red Crackers with large coloured ones sticking out every few inches, the end lighted and when once started it kept on burning. They lowered it from the top as it burned, lasted quite 5 minutes, and ended with a sort of Catherine Wheel, then they threw down bunches of lighted Crackers that exploded as they fell & then started another long cracker!

The smoke and smell of sulphur and powder was pretty thick – All the ships in the Harbour were dressed rainbow fashion – Called on Mrs. Smith, her at home day. She looked very pretty and wore a charming dress. Called on Mdme Berindoague, but she was out. Met a number of perfectly charming Chinese children – they are perfect pictures in their new bright coloured dresses and caps, and such clean solemn little faces – Rather like Sunday. All shops closed everywhere & everyone in their best – Only crackers going off perpetually. The trains are all decorated with flags … Saw a small Dragon procession – Only children, but a splendid Dragon, Chinese always pray for rain on New Year’s Day to sort of “Christen” the rice – and generally it comes, it may be the result of so many rockets and crackers.

[MS 908/A/9 p114 – 116]

Official travel document in Chinese allowing Helen Caddick to travel undisturbed in the province [MS 908/A/9]

If you would like to view any of Helen Caddick’s diaries, please contact us in advance to make an appointment via archives.appointments@birmingham.gov.uk.

Nicola Crews
Archivist